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In 1964, Trevor Peck, a wealthy businessman who owned a hosiery
factory in Leicester, also became involved in nut manufacturing.
He paid particular attention to producing an object less costly
than the MOAC. Peter Biven and his brother Barrie introduced Trevor
Peck to climbing in 1951 and the three of them formed a formidable
climbing team for many years. The credit goes to Trevor for dreaming
up the chock. His Crackers were made from knurled round steel or
Duralumin bar cut to the required length. He used steel wire, stronger
than small diameter rope, for the smallest sizes. The earliest ones,
in which the wire ends were locked and silver soldered into a copper
sleeve, were definitely in use in 1962. It was only in 1967 that
the wires were swaged with the Talurit ferrule system. There was
also a nylon version of the Cracker, the Ny-Chock on tape. Trevor
Peck deposited the first patent for nuts in 1965. This was later
refused since there was already proof that the MOAC predated the
Peck device and left the door open for other innovators. The Peck
Crackers were not very successful in England but the American climber
Royal Robbins, returning from a trip to England in 1966, took back
to the USA not only a few samples but also his experience of the
art of placing passive protection. In his excellent book, Advanced
Rockcraft, a superb photo by John Cleare shows Peter Biven using
a Cracker on the « Coal Face » at Bosigran. Unfortunately,
Trevor Peck passed away prematurely in 1969 and was not able to
develop his company, Peck Climbing Equipment.
In 1964 or was it 63, in a cottage in the Peak District, then home
of Tony Howard, a hobby was born which was later to become a company
of international repute. With his friend Alan Waterhouse, Tony Howard
marketed sets of Wedges under the brand name of Troll. Not far from
there, Paul Seddon, master of his castle in his own small enterprise
Parba, was asked in 1965 by Ellis Brigham to manufacture new nuts
to be sold in his store in Manchester.
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Paul Seddon cut his prototypes in a 25 mm by 20 mm bar of aluminium
alloy that he was going to use, by a coincidence, for a future piton...
Angled at 14 degrees and drilled transversely with a simple 8 mm
hole, these nuts were delivered, under the name of Spud, to Ellis
Brigham in October 1965. Later on, Spuds of different sizes were
manufactured. Paul Seddon did not stop there. In 1968 he produced
what were probably the first nuts for wide cracks, the Big-H, which
were cut from an H-section extrusion. Later in 1967, at Troll, an
extruded bar in the shape of a « T » gave birth to the
Tee Chock. In 1970, Paul Seddon teamed up with Tony Howard and Alan
Waterhouse and became the third « troll ».
In 1966, in the long-abandoned cinema of Deiniolen (Wales), Denny
Moorhouse and Shirley Smith, two original personalities, created
the most mythical factory of climbing hardware, Clogwyn Climbing
Gear. At that time, a day on which they produced 24 nuts was reckoned
to be a good one! At the end of that year, Denny Moorhouse made
his first Hexagons which inspired many later on. The size 7 was
called Jumbo, the size 8 Mammoth! In few years, Clog became the
generic word for nut in the language of climbers around the world.
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