Gear Reviews & Buying Tips

My climbing partners and I are constantly comparing notes on new toys from the climbing shops. Once is a while we'll find something that is surprisingly good or bad. It's these items that I want to write about. I don't mean to step on anyone's feet who is loyal to a certain gear mfgr but lets face it, some gear rules and some really sucks, regardless of who's name is on it. I generally buy gear for it's functionality as opposed to it's brand name or color so this review should be as unbiased as possible. Most of the gear surprises were in the ice climbing category for some reason. Probably because it is a newer sport and new innovations are abundant.

Webolettes - Everyone knows that a cordolette is the best way to equalize 3 pieces of gear for a belay anchor (as long as the direction of load is constant.) So why don't you see climbers carrying them on a regular basis? I think it's because of the fact that a cordolette is 18-20' of gangly cord and is not particularly handy to rack, at least for everyday use. Behold the webolette. This is not just a cordolette tied from webbing instead of cord. It is 10' of spectra with a runner strength sewn loop on each end. Here's how it works… Clip each end loop to separate pieces of gear. Then take a bite of the remaining webbing near the center of the webolotte and clip it to the third piece of gear like you would with a bite of cordolette. Clip a biner into the 2 loops hanging down as you would the 3 loops of a cordolette, pull in the direction of the anticipated load, and tie a figure eight master knot. Notice that because of the 2 sewn loops in the webolette, there are 4 strands coming down from the 3 pieces of gear as opposed to 6 with a cordolette. This makes the system simpler and results in less clutter at the belay but achieves the same equalization as a cordolette. After being loaded, the master knot unties easily because spectra is naturally more slippery. Important: It is absolutely imperative that you tie a proper master knot! If you don't, 1 of the 3 pieces could fail and cause the whole system to fail! Finally, the webolette is easy to rack because there is half as much material and the spectra is incredibly light. If you're a fan of spectra slings, you'll love the webolette. Be sure to know how to use it before trying it.

Some climbers like carrying a cordolette because it is good prusik material for rescue situations. A webolette works well here too, just use a klemheist knot with one of the sewn loops instead of a prusik. The only drawback to the webolette is that it does not function as a giant sling for slinging big boulders or horns like a cordolette will. It does function however as a huge 10' runner.