Instructions for Use
easy, bombproof. Compact dual eye Dyneema-Nylon Anchor Sling
comes in 10, 12 and 14 ft lengths and makes equally loaded
anchors and reduces risk of shock loading remaining pro -
if one piece “blows” the others are already tensioned. Secure,
Equalized, Redundant with No Extension (SERENE). For speed
and efficiency -
First clip each end into cams, nuts or bolts forming a V
Next clip the center bight of web to the middle piece of
gear forming a W
Gather the hanging bights together & tie a figure 8 forming
two loops. These are your master anchor points.
BELAY! For multi-directional anchors the master loops
may also be clipped into an upward slotted protection piece
and tensioned. For compact racking, clip eyes together,
pass tail thru biner folding in thirds, and tie... or twist
and clip in bottom loops . Carry on harness or SPEED SLING.
The Web-o-lette® is an Anchor Sling designed for use in recreational
rock, snow and ice climbing for anchoring a dynamic climbing
rope to 2 or 3 protection points according to the instructions
below. Use in other applications may be hazardous and is NOT
recommended! strength: 13 kN (3,000 lb eye to eye), 22 kN
(4922 lb) minimum strength when both eyes are clipped to the
The foundation of any good anchor system is its protection
points, which must be strong and secure. Beware of any fixed
gear (including bolts) which is difficult to gauge the strength
of and in most cases impossible to test. The exception is
the piton, which requires a hammer (only likely carried on
aid routes) to test or re-drive. Do not hammer on existing
bolts (which may weaken them) but do inspect carefully - is
it new and shiny (old and rusted), placed with the rock supporting
the hanger (or free to spin mid air), bent, cracked or damaged
by rock avalanche? When in doubt, BACK IT UP! It takes little
effort and only a moment or two to add new protection from
your rack and equalize it all with a Web-o-lette!. For rappelling
- practice backing up the anchor for the first climber down.
To be a legitimate test, make sure 100% of the rappellers
load is on the fixed gear and that your back up anchor is
full strength & attached to the rope. Stay clipped in to the
back up anchor while testing the fixed anchor aggressively
by bouncing (body weight plus) on the rope before descending.
Keep your rope clipped in to the back up anchor until the
last climber descends.
1. Always anchor the rope to both master loops (at
bottom). Consider using two carabiners (at least one locking)
2. Always equalize the length of the 3 “arms” with
anticipation of the direction of pull in the event that the
anchor is loaded.
3. When multi-directional (strong in all directions)
protection is not available, use an upward slotted directional
piece of protection clipped to the lower master loops to prevent
your placements failure in the event of severe upward loading
of the Web-o-lette®.
4. Try to use at least 3 strong and solid anchor points
(bolts, pitons, cams, nuts, ice screws). Always anchor the
loop/arm to the strongest protection.If only 2 anchor points
are available (2 bolt belay stations) clip one sewn eye to
each bolt, then clip the center bight into the stronger appearing
bolt and tie your master knot. Ice tools can be placed and
equalized into one “eye/arm” of your Web-o-lette® in addition
to anchoring to 2 screws.
5. Minimize force multiplication on the anchor by encouraging
the leader (yourself?) to place protection early and to anticipate
the directional loading of his first piece while planning
protection strategy for the rest of the pitch.
1. Never anchor to a single protection point - natural
2. Never clip into the sewn eyes of the Web-o-lette® except
for attachment to protection points. This prevents weakening
or possible failure of the sewn eyes do to improper loading.
3. Never clip into either eye strap or loop above the
master knot. This is not as strong as clipping into both Master
Loops and if your protection point failed, your carabiner
would not be held.
Improvisation is key for getting yourself out of a jam. Here
are a couple of things that can been done with the Web-o-lette®:
Emergency 3 step sub aiders - clip both eyes together
& tie overhand knots forming steps – useful for passing a
point or two of aid.
Emergency rappel sling material - Web-o-lette® is made
from Ultratape which can be cut up and tied into a loop in
an emergency - grapevine or double fishermans knot olds 5,000
lbf but a waterknot (ring bend) will slip at 3,300 lbs! Be
sure to dress your knot well and leave 3-4" tails.
Triple Length Runner - Pass around a large tree, rock
spike or boulder, clip both ends together and to the rope.
Friction Hitch Ascending Loop - tie middle of the Web-o-lette®
to climbing rope with friction hitch (prussik, bachman, etc.)
and then tie foot loop in one end at efficient height. Other
end may be clipped to harness to back up your self-belay.
Mechanical Advantage Z-Rig - Rig a 3:1 “slave” Z-Rig
w/ 2 carabiners and your Web-o-lette® in order to perform
“tight quarter” short distance raising tasks. Once load has
been taken off main line, it can be re-rigged for longer raises.
- For rock climbing and mountaineering use only. These activities
are dangerous! As a climber, it is your responsibility to
obtain & follow qualified instruction on the proper use and
limitations of this equipment. Equipment should be inspected
& replaced on a regular basis & when retired destroyed to
prevent further use. Any burns, abrasions, cuts or other excessive
wear are immediate cause for retirement. Improper or extended
use will increase the risk of serious injury or death.
QUESTIONS - If you have a question about this product
or its use, please contact us at the address below.
(831) 620-0911 fx 620-0977
P.O Box 222295 Carmel, CA 93922