Form a "V"


Form a "W"


Figure 8 loop

 

Web-o-lette® Instructions for Use

Simple, easy, bombproof. Compact dual eye Dyneema-Nylon Anchor Sling comes in 10, 12 and 14 ft lengths and makes equally loaded anchors and reduces risk of shock loading remaining pro - if one piece “blows” the others are already tensioned. Secure, Equalized, Redundant with No Extension (SERENE). For speed and efficiency -

 

V First clip each end into cams, nuts or bolts forming a V

W Next clip the center bight of web to the middle piece of gear forming a W

8 Gather the hanging bights together & tie a figure 8 forming two loops. These are your master anchor points.

ON BELAY! For multi-directional anchors the master loops may also be clipped into an upward slotted protection piece and tensioned. For compact racking, clip eyes together, pass tail thru biner folding in thirds, and tie... or twist and clip in bottom loops . Carry on harness or SPEED SLING.

DESCRIPTION
The Web-o-lette® is an Anchor Sling designed for use in recreational rock, snow and ice climbing for anchoring a dynamic climbing rope to 2 or 3 protection points according to the instructions below. Use in other applications may be hazardous and is NOT recommended! strength: 13 kN (3,000 lb eye to eye), 22 kN (4922 lb) minimum strength when both eyes are clipped to the rope.

General Anchor Comments
The foundation of any good anchor system is its protection points, which must be strong and secure. Beware of any fixed gear (including bolts) which is difficult to gauge the strength of and in most cases impossible to test. The exception is the piton, which requires a hammer (only likely carried on aid routes) to test or re-drive. Do not hammer on existing bolts (which may weaken them) but do inspect carefully - is it new and shiny (old and rusted), placed with the rock supporting the hanger (or free to spin mid air), bent, cracked or damaged by rock avalanche? When in doubt, BACK IT UP! It takes little effort and only a moment or two to add new protection from your rack and equalize it all with a Web-o-lette!. For rappelling - practice backing up the anchor for the first climber down. To be a legitimate test, make sure 100% of the rappellers load is on the fixed gear and that your back up anchor is full strength & attached to the rope. Stay clipped in to the back up anchor while testing the fixed anchor aggressively by bouncing (body weight plus) on the rope before descending. Keep your rope clipped in to the back up anchor until the last climber descends.

DO's
1. Always anchor the rope to both master loops (at bottom). Consider using two carabiners (at least one locking) for redundancy.
2. Always equalize the length of the 3 “arms” with anticipation of the direction of pull in the event that the anchor is loaded.
3. When multi-directional (strong in all directions) protection is not available, use an upward slotted directional piece of protection clipped to the lower master loops to prevent your placements failure in the event of severe upward loading of the Web-o-lette®.
4. Try to use at least 3 strong and solid anchor points (bolts, pitons, cams, nuts, ice screws). Always anchor the loop/arm to the strongest protection.If only 2 anchor points are available (2 bolt belay stations) clip one sewn eye to each bolt, then clip the center bight into the stronger appearing bolt and tie your master knot. Ice tools can be placed and equalized into one “eye/arm” of your Web-o-lette® in addition to anchoring to 2 screws.
5. Minimize force multiplication on the anchor by encouraging the leader (yourself?) to place protection early and to anticipate the directional loading of his first piece while planning protection strategy for the rest of the pitch.

DONT's
1. Never anchor to a single protection point - natural or artificial
2.
Never clip into the sewn eyes of the Web-o-lette® except for attachment to protection points. This prevents weakening or possible failure of the sewn eyes do to improper loading.
3.
Never clip into either eye strap or loop above the master knot. This is not as strong as clipping into both Master Loops and if your protection point failed, your carabiner would not be held.

CLIMBER SELF-RESCUE APPLICATIONS
Improvisation is key for getting yourself out of a jam. Here are a couple of things that can been done with the Web-o-lette®:
Emergency 3 step sub aiders - clip both eyes together & tie overhand knots forming steps – useful for passing a point or two of aid.
Emergency rappel sling material - Web-o-lette® is made from Ultratape which can be cut up and tied into a loop in an emergency - grapevine or double fishermans knot olds 5,000 lbf but a waterknot (ring bend) will slip at 3,300 lbs! Be sure to dress your knot well and leave 3-4" tails.
Triple Length Runner - Pass around a large tree, rock spike or boulder, clip both ends together and to the rope.
Friction Hitch Ascending Loop - tie middle of the Web-o-lette® to climbing rope with friction hitch (prussik, bachman, etc.) and then tie foot loop in one end at efficient height. Other end may be clipped to harness to back up your self-belay.
Mechanical Advantage Z-Rig - Rig a 3:1 “slave” Z-Rig w/ 2 carabiners and your Web-o-lette® in order to perform “tight quarter” short distance raising tasks. Once load has been taken off main line, it can be re-rigged for longer raises.

WARNING - For rock climbing and mountaineering use only. These activities are dangerous! As a climber, it is your responsibility to obtain & follow qualified instruction on the proper use and limitations of this equipment. Equipment should be inspected & replaced on a regular basis & when retired destroyed to prevent further use. Any burns, abrasions, cuts or other excessive wear are immediate cause for retirement. Improper or extended use will increase the risk of serious injury or death.

QUESTIONS
- If you have a question about this product or its use, please contact us at the address below.

ph (831) 620-0911 fx 620-0977
P.O Box 222295 Carmel, CA 93922

All rights reserved. Mountain Tools® 2002