'CORE' GEAR LIST SPORT CLIMBING/ TOP-ROPING

CLOTHING This depends upon whether you are red pointing "Express-Way' in Owens River or "Wild Turkeys" in Red Rocks Nevada! Sport climbing has received a bad rap in recent years from traditional climbers as the 'lycra zone'. Sport Climbers have different needs - #1 is mobility! Wear clothes that are comfortable as well as offer some protection from rough rock. Cotton is cool & breathable, polyester or acrylic is more durable and stretchy. In most cases, you won't be getting to far off the ground so you won't need to worry about Gore-tex or pile mitts. Modern clip-ups & top-rope problems are common place at every crag, wear what makes you feel powerful and most important, have a good time!

EQUIPMENT The 'rack' for these activities is minimal. This is good news for the entry level climber who won't want to drop a bundle on Cams right away. All you will need are 10-12 quick draws (straight and bent gate biners linked by a short sling), 4 locking biners, 5 mid-length slings, 5 long slings, and a Mtn Tools Web-o-lette. Your rope can be 50-60m dynamic (dry recommended for extra wear resistance) for lead climbs. Remember static rope should only be used for top roping and is not safe for lead climbing!

Personal Gear- Shoes or slippers will be light weight and sensitive, harness light & skinny for maximum mobility, and belay device able to hold a Mac Truck for hours.... while you "work" a "problem". Look into a Belay 8, Logic or even a Grigri.

In Situ Gear - In most cases, gear will be fixed - i.e. bolts. If you can get to it you can clip it. Maybe. Several techniques for racking and clipping become important when the difficulty increases. Always question the integrity of bolts! Inspect each one for signs of impact (deformation) AFTER you have clipped it. Never trust your bacon to a single piece of gear - no matter what it is. Safety is numbers - the harder (and steeper) it gets, the less likely you will grate on the rock if you don't flash! Local top rope anchors require a few simple pieces of gear. This is a good way to become familiar and well practiced with their placement. Be sure to BACK IT UP! Sink the whole rack daddy.

WHAT ELSE? Bring plenty of water for you and your partner, include food, first aid-medical tape (how are your tendons???), extra clothes, hat, and maybe a little reward for the achieved 'red-point'. Don't forget to bring that special someone who loves to lead the 'hard stuff' & set the top-rope for us mere mortals.

OTHER RELATED TOPICS - What are the prerequisites to sport climbing? - Places to go? Pinnacles, Bouldering the Big Sur Coast, Castle Rock - Questions about equipment?

 

READING
Pinnacles Guide Book
Sport & Face Climbing
Flash Training

VIDEOS
All ** sport videos **

RECOMMENDED ROUTES

East West
Tourist Trap Area 5.7 - 5.9 Old Original 5.4 mountaineering
Portent 5.5 Chockstone Dome 5.3-5.5
Swallow Crack 5.7 (nuts) Twinkle Toes 5.5
The Wet Kiss 5.9 Dos Equis 5.8
Subterranean Tango 5.10+ Bandits in Bondage 5.10+ or 5.11
The Pod 5.11 Lava Falls 5.9 (seasonal)
The Hand 5.6 (exposed!) Shake and Bake 5.9 (seasonal)
The Frog (5.7-5.11) Game Show 5.10-5.12
  Costanoan 5.4
  Machete Direct 5.8 A1 or 5.12+
  Tilting Terrace 5.8 / Backside 5.9
   
High Peaks  
Flat Iron 5.4-5.10
Burgundy Dome 5.7
The Egg 5.9
Dragon Fly 5.7
Freedom Dome 5.9
Tuff Dome H&L 5.5
Condor Conduit 5.7
North & South Fingers 5.5
 

VIDEOS
ALPINE ICE
THE AVALANCHE GAME

ROUTE SUGGESTIONS
Mt Whitney - Mountaineers Rte (N. Ridge) C3-4 often icy
Kings: Angel Wings, Thunder Mountain, Kearsarge Pinnacles
Monarch Divide: Grand Sentinel, Y-Gully C-4
Palisades: Several "knap sack" passes & cols C2-4
Evolution's: Mt Darwin W. Ridge C3
Mono Recesses: Piute Crags (many), Bear Creek Spire C3-4, Mt Abbot C3-4
Minarets: many C3-4 and lots of C5!!!
Clark & Cathedral: Tenaya Cyn C3-4, Mt Lyell C3-4 (snow or ridge), Echo Peaks (many C3-5), The Cockscomb C3-4
Northern Yosemite: Sawtooth Ridge (many C3-5)