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Simple, easy, bombproof. Compact dual eye Dyneema-Nylon
Anchor Sling comes in 10, 12 and 14 ft lengths and makes equally loaded
anchors and reduces risk of shock loading remaining pro - if one piece
“blows” the others are already tensioned. Secure, Equalized, Redundant
with No Extension (SERENE). For speed and efficiency -
V First clip each end into
cams, nuts or bolts forming a V
W Next clip the center bight
of web to the middle piece of gear forming a W
8 Gather the hanging bights
together & tie a figure 8 forming two loops. These are your master anchor
points.
DESCRIPTION
The Web-o-lette® is an Anchor Sling designed for use in recreational rock,
snow and ice climbing for anchoring a dynamic climbing rope to 2 or 3
protection points according to the instructions below. Use in other applications
may be hazardous and is NOT recommended! strength: 13 kN (3,000 lb eye
to eye), 22 kN (4922 lb) minimum strength when both eyes are clipped to
the rope.
General Anchor Comments
The foundation of any good anchor system is its protection points, which
must be strong and secure. Beware of any fixed gear (including bolts)
which is difficult to gauge the strength of and in most cases impossible
to test. The exception is the piton, which requires a hammer (only likely
carried on aid routes) to test or re-drive. Do not hammer on existing
bolts (which may weaken them) but do inspect carefully - is it new and
shiny (old and rusted), placed with the rock supporting the hanger (or
free to spin mid air), bent, cracked or damaged by rock avalanche? When
in doubt, BACK IT UP! It takes little effort and only a moment or two
to add new protection from your rack and equalize it all with a Web-o-lette!.
For rappelling - practice backing up the anchor for the first climber
down. To be a legitimate test, make sure 100% of the rappellers load is
on the fixed gear and that your back up anchor is full strength & attached
to the rope. Stay clipped in to the back up anchor while testing the fixed
anchor aggressively by bouncing (body weight plus) on the rope before
descending. Keep your rope clipped in to the back up anchor until the
last climber descends.
DO's
1. Always anchor the rope to both master loops (at bottom). Consider
using two carabiners (at least one locking) for redundancy.
2. Always equalize the length of the 3 “arms” with anticipation
of the direction of pull in the event that the anchor is loaded.
3. When multi-directional (strong in all directions) protection
is not available, use an upward slotted directional piece of protection
clipped to the lower master loops to prevent your placements failure in
the event of severe upward loading of the Web-o-lette®.
4. Try to use at least 3 strong and solid anchor points (bolts,
pitons, cams, nuts, ice screws). Always anchor the loop/arm to the strongest
protection.If only 2 anchor points are available (2 bolt belay stations)
clip one sewn eye to each bolt, then clip the center bight into the stronger
appearing bolt and tie your master knot. Ice tools can be placed and equalized
into one “eye/arm” of your Web-o-lette® in addition to anchoring to 2
screws.
5. Minimize force multiplication on the anchor by encouraging the
leader (yourself?) to place protection early and to anticipate the directional
loading of his first piece while planning protection strategy for the
rest of the pitch.
DONT's
1. Never anchor to a single protection point - natural or artificial
2. Never clip into the sewn eyes of the Web-o-lette® except for attachment
to protection points. This prevents weakening or possible failure of the
sewn eyes do to improper loading.
3. Never clip into either eye strap or loop above the master knot.
This is not as strong as clipping into both Master Loops and if your protection
point failed, your carabiner would not be held.
CLIMBER SELF-RESCUE APPLICATIONS
Improvisation is key for getting yourself out of a jam. Here are a couple
of things that can been done with the Web-o-lette®:
Emergency 3 step sub aiders - clip both eyes together & tie overhand
knots forming steps – useful for passing a point or two of aid.
Emergency rappel sling material - Web-o-lette® is made from Ultratape
which can be cut up and tied into a loop - water knot holds 5,000 lbs
and a grapevine 5,500 lbs (unlike other hybrid Spectra or Dyneema web)!
Triple Length Runner - Pass around a large tree, rock spike or
boulder, clip both ends together and to the rope.
Friction Hitch Ascending Loop - tie middle of the Web-o-lette®
to climbing rope with friction hitch (prussik, bachman, etc.) and then
tie foot loop in one end at efficient height. Other end may be clipped
to harness to back up your self-belay.
Mechanical Advantage Z-Rig - Rig a 3:1 “slave” Z-Rig w/ 2 carabiners
and your Web-o-lette® in order to perform “tight quarter” short distance
raising tasks. Once load has been taken off main line, it can be re-rigged
for longer raises.
ALTERNATE USE: QUADOLETTE for two-bolt
anchors
Modern sport and classic routes equipped with fixed bolt anchors can be
easily equalized with the WEBOLETTE rigged as a QUADOLETTE! For multi-pitch
bolted routes it may be preferred to pre-tie the QUADOLETTES and "leap-frog"
them from belay anchor to belay anchor. Here's how:
1) Clip both end/eyes of the WEBO to one bolt.
2) Clip the mid-point of the hanging loop to the same bolt. Adjust the
length of each hanging loop.
3) Tie first one, then a second overhand limit knot (in all 4 strands).
When tying, you can "offset" 2 of the strands to make and "upper"
and "lower" shelf of 2 strands each.
4) Clip the remaining 2 end loops to the 2nd bolt.
5) Anchor the climbing team by anchoring your rope to 2 strands of either
shelf, preferrably with a locking carabiner. Two lockers or a locker and
non-locker assures complete redundancy.
WARNING - For rock climbing and mountaineering use
only. These activities are dangerous! As a climber, it is your responsibility
to obtain & follow qualified instruction on the proper use and limitations
of this equipment. Equipment should be inspected & replaced on a regular
basis & when retired destroyed to prevent further use. Improper or extended
use will increase the risk of serious injury or death. ? QUESTIONS
If you have a question about this product or its use, please contact us
at the address below.
Back to Web-o-lette®
Mountain Tools, Inc. 2000
(831) 620-0911
P.O Box 222295 Carmel, CA 93922
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