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'CORE CLINIC' GEAR LIST PINNACLES ROCK CLIMBING |
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The park is divided into two districts - the East and West - both are easily accessible from the Peninsula with driving times from 3/4 to 1 1/2 hours. La Gloria Rd (out of Chular) can be used as an alternate route to reach the East side. It is a graded dirt road passable by two wheel drive vehicles (in good weather) and offers rich scenery- both flora and fauna. You might get lucky and spot a Bob Cat or Wild Turkey or an explosion of Spring wild flowers. The West Side is more low key and less crowded, has taller cliffs (the Balconies & Machete Ridge) and some classic traditional (stance drilled) routes. The East Side has many "sport routes" concentrated in the corridor from Discovery Wall to the Monolith. A slightly longer hike will yield a good return - classic routes on the Hand, Frog and Yaks are scenic and well worth the extra trail-time. The High Peaks can be reached from either side of the Park and their routes have the distinct difference of offering wild exposure and dramatic summits! Be aware and respect seasonal route closures for nesting raptors and report any nests you may notice from your unique vantage point. The rock at the Pinnacles varies in consistency and quality from route to route. Some is super hard and consolidated (Ryolite) and some is loose and chossy (Breccia). Care should be taken to test handholds and footholds before committing to a move. Remember the bigger the knob-hold (the more it protrudes from the host rock), the more leverage you can apply. Use the "knock-knock who's there?" technique for testing holds - pound each candidate with the heal of your hand - or give them a test-kick. Most routes are short (80-150 ft) with the exceptions being on Machete, Balconies, Yaks and Resurrection Wall. Plan to rappel off most routes and be cautious and aware of spontaneous and climber generated rock fall. Wearing a helmet (although not popular on sport routes) is a good idea and will avoid the common headache due to rock fall. Use long runners to reduce rope drag and for the occasional knob tie-off - nylon is less slippery than spectra and good for this. Also a handful of nuts are a good supplement to in-situ gear on trad routes and may offer more than psychological benefit. CLOTHING Wear clothing that provides good mobility like loose pants or shorts. Remember the rock is very rough and your clothing is your "second skin". Good ankle cuffs and long sleeve shirts are good for keeping the sun off in summer and repelling biting "no see-ums". Spring and fall are mild, summer very hot and winter nights can be below freezing if you "camp over". EQUIPMENT
*Some climbers prefer soft slipper shoes for frictioning on rounded knobs. Others wish a stiff edging shoe for square cut edges. A handful of beginner routes can even be ascended in trail shoes or tennies. |
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