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No matter what the angle formed by both sides of a crack, the Rocks
have always a three-point contact instead of only two for the pyramidal
nut. By coincidence, at about the same time, Geoff Birtles, the
Editor of High Mountain Sports, worked with Tom Proctor on a closely
similar design. They offered Mark Vallance the name Rocks which
was what their device was called.
Another English maker, Faces, from Matlock, went even further a
few years later, with his Gemstones. Curved from top to bottom but
also from back to front, this complex shape keeps three point contact
in flared cracks.
With Hugh Banner (today HB Climbing Equipment), the problem of
the flared crack is tackled from a different angle. « A real
goldsmith of the bronze nut », he created the HB Nuts in 1983,
later renamed the HB Offsets. Cracks in rocks, particularly small
cracks encountered on difficult climbs, are often narrower at the
back than where they emerge on the surface. To deal with this inconvenience,
the Offsets have a double-transverse taper which allows subtle placements
in flaring slots and old piton scars.
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